JULY 2021

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Back at the bikes at Glencanisp Lodge after Suilven. Socks away - it's been a long day - almost 7 hours. Taken1/6/21 at 16:57pm..
Katy and Craig approaching Sob na Doire with Ben Nevis in the distance. Taken 27/5/21 at 15:48pm.

23-28th May  SCOTLAND MOTORCYCLE TOUR

Despite a weather forecast of incredible inclemency, all day heavy rain and gales all up the west coast from Wales to the Scottish Highlands, Tom and I set off mid-morning on our Triumph Tigers heading through Glencoe to Kinlochleven.  The object to, meet up with Katy and Craig, also on motorbikes, to do some biking and hill walking. 

As we left Grasmere a blinding shower of hail just seemed to emphasise that we were in for a drubbing. All I can say is that the call of the wild was strong and both Tom and I were up for it. Last I did this journey was with Dave Birkett, on his Triumph Tiger, in May 2018. That time to watch the internationally famous Scottish Six Days Trial. It never stopped raining for a single moment of that ride. But hey, this time I had a waterproof jacket of some quality – Rukka. ‘Rukka the best’ – as a Spanish Border Guard once said to me after he’d cast a stern eye over me and my paperwork. Something which just confirmed to me, what only bikers know, that ours is an International brother and sisterhood.  

And fortune favours the brave. Doesn’t it? Apparently so, for after a few miles up the M6 the rain thinned and then spluttered, the winds, apart from sweeping me across two lanes beyond Beattock summit, lost their gusto.

Eventually too, over the next few days, the showers fizzled out altogether and the sun began to seriously shine. The Scottish Highlands with the sun shining are incomparable in my opinion. On this trip, we were aiming to enjoy both the biking and delights of the high, remote Scottish mountains on foot. Whilst I’m sure many, these days can appreciate the latter only a few of you will understand the thrill and freedom of riding a motorbike through the breathtaking scenery of Scotland. To get some idea of what I’m talking about just imagine your best experience ever, double it, and that’s how I feel about riding my Triumph Tiger motorcycle.  

So I’m just going to offer you the attached photographic essay on our trip from the 23-28th May. I hope to come up with part two, which extends up to my return home on the 3rd July, in the near future. When I get a minute.

Fairy Foxglove (Erinus Alpinus) is the purple flower on Clachan Bridge. Taken 24/5/21 at 12:32pm. South of Oban, joining the slate rich Isle of Seil to the mainland is the single arch Clachan Bridge. Built in 1791 its known as 'Atlantic Bridge' and some say it's the only bridge over the Atlantic - but there is another'. Taken 24/5/21 at 12:32pm. Red Deer in Kinlochleven village. The site of a former huge Aluminium smelting refinery I have always loved Kinlochleven - I first came here as a babe in arms, carried by motorbike and sidecar. Our frequent annual holiday base was B&B at the Clarkes. One year the weather was so bad that my father turned the motorbike round and we went back to the Lakes. Never quite forgiven him for that. Taken 25/5/21 at 11:56am. Blackwater Reservoir. A huge dam, the longest in Scotland, and a massive body of water. This remote dam, allow six hours walking from and back to Kinlochleven, was built between 1905 and 1909. A remarkable hydroelectric scheme built by itinerant workers some of whom, judging by the adjacent graveyard, travelled no further. Taken 25/5/21 at 2:54pm. The motorbike gang, Katy BMW, Tom Triumph and Craig Ducati, on our way to Ardnamurchan Point. Taken 26/5/21 at 13:04pm. Ardnamurchan Point Lighthouse. A very fine lighthouse indeed, thanks for letting me onsite Mr Contractor. Behind are the Cuillin of Rhum - I thought they didn't look quite right for those of Skye! What a twit. Taken 26/5/21 at 15:20pm. Red deer Ardnamurchan Point. As soon as I get my camera out those animals just start posing. My old dog Jet, hugely missed, raced to every mountain summit cairn and sat or stood there just because she knew I was going to take the photograph. Poseurs all. Taken 26/5/21 at 15:40pm. Sanna Bay with islands of Muck, Rhum and Eigg (right) beyond. Stunning beyond stunning. Taken 26/5/21 at 16:18pm. ditto. Clear water, clear air, clearly magnificent. Taken 26/5/21 at 16:23pm. ditto, Me, Tom and Katy courtesy of Craig. Taken 26/5/21 at 16:32pm. Shells, non explosive. Taken 26/5/21 at 16:46pm. Tom, topping out of Coire na Tulaich starting Buachaille Etive Mor Traverse. Taken 27/5/21 at 16:46pm. Katy's vegan feast on Buachaille Etive Mor. Taken 27/5/21 at 14:56pm. Katy and Craig approaching Sob na Doire. Taken 27/5/21 at 15:36pm. Katy and Craig approaching Sob na Doire with Ben Nevis in the distance. Taken 27/5/21 at 15:48pm. The memorable Eas Chia - aig Waterfalls near the base of Loch Arkaig. Taken 28/5/21 at 14:37pm. Orange-tip by the falls. Taken 28/5/21 at 14:50pm. Red Deer paddling in Loch Arkaig. Taken 28/5/21 at 15:38pm. Elizabeth Regina - maybe the deserted croft beyond, Kinlocharkaig, once got its post delivered to this post-box. Taken 28/5/21 at 16:48pm. Beach party, Loch Arkaig. Taken 28/5/21 at 15:50pm. North Face of Ben Nevis. Boy I've spent some time climbing there. Days at a time in the depths of winter and sunny, and not so sunny, days in the summer months. First tipped out in wellies aged nine. OMG that was sixty years and I still remember sitting by the path and saying I wasn't going any further. Dad's response: A sunny West Face of Aonach Dubh viewed from outside The Clachaig. I must have been around 17 when I did my first hard rock climb here - aptly named You can still light fires at the Red Squirrel Campsite in Glencoe. That's very special. Taken 28/5/21 at 22:33pm. Tom's Triumph Tiger Rally Pro. Beyond is the SMC Climbing Hut of Lagangarbh and the regular approach up Buachalle Etive Mor by the Coire na Tulaich. Photo by Tom Lonsdale. Taken 27/5/21 at 13:58pm. Me and Tom by our bikes on the Red Squirrel Campsite in Glencoe. Mine's the blue one, a Triumph Tiger XCX. Taken 28/5/21 at 2:16pm..
Looking over the Kyle of Tongue , from the campsite, with the sun still lighting the northern sky. Photograph Tom Lonsdale. Taken 30/5/21 around midnight.

29TH MAY TO 3RD JUNE  SCOTLAND MOTORCYCLE TOUR PART 2.

Continuing the motorcycle trip around Scotland saga. On the 29th May, leaving  Katy and Craig who headed back to their base near Edinburgh, Tom and I went our wayward way. Leaving Glencoe we headed east via Loch Lomond before heading north up to the Kyle of Tongue. Great biking in perfect weather up to the wonderfully sited, modern, campsite beside and overlooking the Kyle of  Tongue. 

On the agenda was an ascent of Ben Loyal – the acclaimed ‘Queen of  Scottish Mountains’.  This mission was accomplished on a baking hot day and it exceeded even my exalted expectations. Then on down to Lochinver via Durness to make an ascent of the mythical mountain of Suilven. Then, who knows?  I’ll let the images relate the tale.

Above Loch Coulside with the 'back' of Ben Loyal beyond. Not far now to the Kyle of Tongue and the end of our two hundred mile plus ride for the day. Taken 29/5/21 at 15:41pm. Looking over the Kyle of Tongue to Ben Loyal the handsome, imposing, majestic, mystical, 'Queen of Scottish Mountains'. Golden Eagle country par excellence and an area we often visited en famille when I was a tiny tot in our old Ariel Red Hunter sidecar outfit. Taken 29/5/21 at 20:35pm. Our Triumphs by the Kyle of Tongue. Taken 29/5/21 at 20:44pm. Over the Kyle of Tongue with Ben Loyal, left, and Ben Hope, right. The latter being my son and daughters first Munro (Will aged around seven, Ro aged eleven). Taken 29/5/21 at 20:52pm. Crossing the flow country to the deserted Cunsy lodge and then to the ascent beside Sgor Chaonasaid and on to An Caisteal - the summit jewel in the crown of Ben Loyal's cluster of majestic peaks. Taken 30/5/21 at 10:49am.. The early flowers of Cloudberry on the flanks of Sgor Chaonasaid. Taken 30/5/21 at 12:10pm.. Tom approaching the granite fortress summit of Ben Loyal - An Caisteal (The Castle). Taken 30/5/21 at 13:47pm.. Looking to the granite crags adorning the summit of Sgor Chaonasaid. A peak once dismissed in early books as being scrappy and not worth climbing! Taken 23/5/21 at 13:47pm. On the scalloped granite summit block of An Caisteal. I thank God it's not a Munro. Taken 30/5/21 at 14:10pm. Looking over the flow country north east from An Caisteal. An area of supreme importance in locking up the world's excess of carbon dioxide. And in preserving my old timer's love of wild places and quiet beauty. Taken 30/5/21 at 14:11pm. Tom heading back through the golden gorse. Taken 30/5/21 at 16:34pm. Old boathouse by Tongue House Pier. Taken 30/5/21 at 19:59pm. Sea Pink Tongue House Pier. Taken 30/5/21 at 19:59pm. Man marked stone, probably Bronze Age, on the heights above the head of the Kyle of Tongue. Taken 31/5/21 at 11:42am. Steady Tom - it's a long way down. Descending Suilven's western top - Caisteal Liath. Taken 1/6/21 at 13:31pm Violet below Suilven. A bright splash of colour on a dank day. Taken 1/6/21 at 14:53pm. Dwarf Cornel below Suilven. I can' t recall seeing this handsome flower on Suilven before. Taken 1/6/21 at 14:55pm. The track from Glencanisp Lodge to Suilven. Allow two hours to get to the foot of the mountain. Taken 1/6/21 at 16:51pm. Back at the bikes at Glencanisp Lodge after Suilven. Socks away - it's been a long day - almost 7 hours. Taken1/6/21 at 16:57pm.. Ullapool and breakfast sitting in the sunshine overlooking the sea. This day we biked 330 miles from near Lochinver back to the south of Edinburgh. After biking down the west coast to Gairloch, Tom said he thought that section of road the best he had ever ridden. Sweeping bends and ups and downs, room to overtake, and good visibility, all in perfect weather. Praise indeed from someone who has biked all over the world from the Himalayas to South America, from Norway to Spain and ridden his Manx Norton around the Isle of Man TT Circuit at the Classic TT Meet. Taken 2/6/21 at 10:59am.. Looking over the Kyle of Tongue , from the campsite, with the sun still lighting the northern sky. Photograph Tom Lonsdale. Taken 30/5/21 around midnight. Kyle of Tongue campsite. Location, location. Photograph Tom Lonsdale. Taken 31/5/21 at 9:48am. Wild camping by the ruined crofts above the Lochinver to Clachtoll road. The campsites were full! But this seemed much better anyway and hidden in the boulders were signs that the 'Summer Travellers' , in their canvas bell tents, once used this very same site. Happy carefree days. Photo by Tom Lonsdale. Taken 31/5/21 at 20:07pm..

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